Thursday, November 4, 2021

Scotland: Inverness

AFter days of rain and fog on Skye we woke up in Inverness to sunshine and blue sky!  I was so excited because this day was our day to spend at Culloden, that fateful battlefield that cost the clan culture.  If you are a die hard Outlander fan, you know all about this place and I could not wait to really dig into the history and sit on the hallowed grounds.  It was cold, but sunny and so perfect!




I literally could have taken so many food pictures, because the food was that good, but this breakfast was lovely.  Call me simple, but the elaborate Scottish breakfast gets to be a bit much and I was thrilled at an opportunity to have a scone, clotted cream, and coffee for breakfast....the end.  We stopped at this little fresh bakery and had a wonderful morning  meal.


The Culloden Battlefield is a really incredible physical and historical experience.  The museum alone is incredible as it walks you through several hallways of history before ending you on the battlefield.  As you walk through the halls, the right side tells the Jacobite and Prince Charlie's side, the left side tells the British and Cumberland's side.  Long, sad, brutal battle short, the Jacobites had no hope.  They were quite literally living on a prayer with no actual plan, or ability to win.  It was doomed from the start.  And while every set back screamed at the futility of the plan, Divine Right pushed these zealous Clansmen to their doom.  I will admit before leaving the museum, I cried.  So much loss.

We entered the battlefield where the curators have marked lines and distances recorded by historians.  You can quite literally walk where these people died.  Its eery.

Before we walked the grounds and stopped at this little hut.  Okay Outlander fans.......anyone recognize it??  (its where our lovers first laid eyes on each other.......and Jamie got his shoulder set).




In non fantasy world, this little hut served as a field hospital for the British during the battle.  It was small, but out of the thousands that perished on that moor, their losses numbered under 100. 


The moor looks a lot different than it did all those years ago. It had been farmland for several years and now the National Trust of Scotland is doing their best to get the battlefield back to it original state during the battle. To do that, they have brought in native plants and animals to help fertilize and regrow the area.  Which was so great for me because I finally laid my eyes and camera on the Hairy Coo!  As my friend Tiffany said, they DO have the most boopable noses!




Bob and I walked both lines of the battle, the British Red Flag line......




And the Blue Jacobite line......they really have marked the place well and its an incredible experience to walk the lines and visualize the Highlander Charge.


There is a wonderful memorial to the clans set right in the midst of the battlefield.  So much of the Scottish clan culture was lost on that day and many of the clans suffered immensely.  Walking through the clan stones feels.....weighty.





I of course had to take a very irreverent happy face photo by the Clan Fraser Stone.  Je Suis Prest!



Bob stood in this rugged area to give a rough idea of how the landscape would have looked.  Such a rough place to fight a losing battle.


We left Culloden feeling transformed and educated and headed back towards the Urqhart Castle ruins right off of Loch Ness.





This castle was true ruins with a bleak history to match, but the location and views were breathtaking.









Yes, in case you are wondering, all of these castles start running together, but honestly, with feet on the ground I LOVED walking through each one.  You feel transported.  Its the closest I think Ill come to physical time travel.



Bob stopped to make a friend with a weapons historian.



My hero...

On our way back home, we stopped at the Loch Ness shop to pick up a Nessie souvenier.  See that "boat?"  Some crazy explorer when down into Loch Ness in it.  One word......NOPE!


Especially when you read statistics like this one below.  Think I'll leave that water to the monster.  I think she's happy there.


I walked the City later that evening in search of take out and found some amazing views.  I truly loved Inverness and the entire vibe of the City.









I finally made it back to our spot with dinner in tow.  We watched Outlander, ate Chinese food, and I practiced some much needed yoga.


Inverness is, without a doubt, a must stop City on Scotland.  I was sad to leave it.


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